Geography

Kenya shares borders with Ethiopia in the north, Sudan in the northwest, Uganda in the west, Tanzania in the south and Somalia in the northeast. To the east lies the Indian Ocean. The country is divided into four regions: the arid deserts of the north; the savannah lands of the south; the fertile lowlands along the coast; and highlands in the west, where the capital Nairobi is situated. Northwest of Nairobi runs the Rift Valley, dotted with lakes and containing the town of Nakuru, while further west the Aberdare National Park is overlooked by Mount Kenya (5,200m/17,000ft), which also is a national park. In the far northwest is Lake Turkana (formerly Lake Rudolph), and in the southwest is Kenya’s share of Lake Victoria.

Kenya is a multicultural society; in the north live Somalis and the nomadic Hamitic peoples (Rendille, Samburu and Turkana), in the south and eastern lowlands are Kamba and Masai and the Luo live around Lake Victoria. The largest group is the Kikuyu who live in the central highlands and have traditionally been dominant in commerce and politics, although this is now changing. There are many other smaller groups and, although Kenya emphasises nationalism, tribal and cultural identity is a factor. A small European settler population remains in the highlands, involved in farming and commerce.

Government

Republic: Gained independence from the UK in 1963.
Head of State: President Emilio Mwai Kibaki since 2002.

Recent History

President Mwai Kibaki claimed victory in controversial presidential elections in December 2007. His swearing-in for a second term in office prompted a wave of unrest across the country and 300 people were killed in the bloodshed that followed the polls. Opposition candidate Raila Odinga rejected Kibaki’s victory and accused the government of rigging the result. International observers also expressed doubts about the poll, and called for an independent inquiry.

When President Kibaki’s National Rainbow Coalition (Narc) won a parliamentary majority in 2002, he promised that his main objective would be to fight against corruption. However, both former and current ministers have become embroiled in a recent corruption scandal, involving a multi-million dollar scam. Furthermore, voters rejected a draft constitution in a referendum in late 2005. While the president presented it as a modernizing measure, his opponents said that it would have left too much power in the hands of the president. Kibaki responded by sacking his entire cabinet and appointing new ministers.

Language

Kiswahili is the national language and English is the official language. The terms Swahili and Kiswahili are used interchangeably, though the term Swahili normally refers to the people while Kiswahili refers to the language. There are over 42 ethnic languages spoken, including Kikuyu and Luo.

Religion

Mostly traditional but there is a sizeable Christian population (both Catholic and Protestant) and the majority of people living along the coast are Muslim.

Kenya Banking

Banks are open Monday to Friday from 0900 – 1500 and from 0900 – 1100 on the the first and last saturday of the month. Banks at the international airports are open 24 hours. ATMs are common in the main cities and generally work well. Credit cards are widely accepted.

Kenya Business Hours

Business hours are generally 9 – 5 and lunch is from 1- 2pm from Monday to Friday. Banks are open from 9 – 3 from Monday to Friday and some banks are open on Saturday morning from 9 – 11am. Banks at Jomo Kenyatta airport are open 24 hours.

Kenya Climate

The coastal area is tropical and the higher altitude areas are cooler. Rainfall can be expected between April to May (the long rains) and again between October and December. January to March is the dryer season and temperatures are generally higher. Snow is possible on Mount Kenya and frost on the other high mountain ranges. On the high lands around Nairobi temperatures are in the range 25 – 30 degrees and nighttime temperatures can do down to 5 degrees. On the coast daily temperature is between 27 and 31 degrees with high humidity.

Kenya Clothing

Lightweight clothing is generally required but cold nights can be expected in the high altitude areas which includes some of the game parks so bring a sweater and long sleeves for the evening. If you are in Kenya in the rainy season you will need a waterproof, a hat is advisable and walking shoes. It is not advisable to bring expensive jewellery and watches with you.

Kenya Currency

The currency is the Kenyan Shilling (KES) divided into 100 cents. Notes in denominations of 1000, 500, 200 and 50 are produced. Coins are 5,10 and 20 shillings. Only change currency at official bureax de change, banks or authorized hotels. The best currency to bring is UK pounds, US dollars or Euros but other currencies will generally be exchanged. There is no restriction on the amount of currency that can be brought into Kenya. However the limit for taking out Kenyan Shillings is 500,000 unless written authorisation is given. Do not deface or destroy Kenyan currency.

Kenyan Customs

For visitors over 17 years of age the allowances are 200 cigarettes or 250 grams of tobacco (not exceeding 250 grams in total), one bottle of wine or half a litre of spirits and 250 millimetres of perfume. Cigarettes must be labeled correctly with the health warning conforming to Kenya standards, failure to do so will resulting a fine and or imprisonment. and so best not to bring any cigarettes into Kenya! The import of firearms, agricultural or horticultural produce and pets is prohibited.

Kenya Electricity

Kenya operates a 220/240V service. Plugs are three point square plugs as used in the UK. In rare cases such as old buildings and in the town of Kisii the large two round pin plugs are used.

Kenya Emergency Services

For Fire, Ambulance, Police dial 999.

Kenya Health

Consult your doctor for advice on the latest vaccinations to be taken. The common ones are vaccinations for Tetanus; Diphtheria; Polio; Typhoid; Hepatitis A; Hepatitis B; Yellow Fever; Rabies and Meningitis. A Yellow fever vaccination certificate may be required for visitors arriving from infected areas.

Malaria does exist in Kenya and protection is required and advice must be taken as to choice of tablet and which areas are deemed to be high risk. Try and reduce the chance of being bitten by mosquitoes as other diseases such as dengue fever are carried by mosquitoes. Use insect repellents and spray your room each night.

Bilharzia is a potential risk and comes from tiny flukes that live in the water. Check with locals on the safety of the lakes and rivers before you swim. Don’t drink tap water and use the readily available bottled water. Rabies is common and if bitten by an animal seek immediate medical attention. There is a very high risk of HIV and other sexually transmitted diseases.

If you join the Flying Doctor Service you will be covered for an evacuation flight but will also be supporting the work of AMREF which provides medical support in rural areas. It is not expensive to join (020 315454).

Nairobi Hospitals are good and the main ones are: Aga Khan Hospital (374000); Children’s Hospital (763474); Kenyatta National Hospital (726300); Nairobi Hospital (722160). In Mombassa the Aga Khan Hospital (041 312953); Coast Provincial Hospital (041 314204); Mombassa Hospital (041 312191) and Pandya Memorial Hospital (041 229252).

Kenya Public Holidays

Kenya Post

The postal system is reliable and stamps can be purchased from hotels and many shops. Post Restante service is available in Nairobi and Mombassa.

Kenya Safari Code

Whilst on Safari please follow the Kenya Safari Code:

• Keep to designated roads or tracks
• Minimise disturbance to animals
• Stay inside your vehicle at all times
• Keep to the speed limit
• Support eco-friendly accommodation facilities
• Never feed animals
• Take care not to disturb the ecological balance
• Take all your litter with you.

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Location: Eastern Africa, just south of Equator; (Longitude between 29 degrees and 41 degress East of Greenwich, Latitude 1 degrees and 12 degrees South of Equator);

Bordering Uganda and Kenya in the north; Democratic Republic of Congo, Burundi and Rwanda in the west; Zambia, Malawi and Mozambique in the south and Indian Ocean to the east;

Altitude

• Central plateau: from around 1200m above sea level (metric converter);
• Highest point: Mt. Kilimanjaro (5895m);
• Lowest point: Lake Tanganyika (358m below sea level);

Landscape

• Central mainland consists of a central plateau covered with huge expanse of savannah and sparse woodland;
• Throughout the interior runs the Great Rift Valley which has created many fascinating topographical features such as the Ngorongoro Crater and Lake Tanganyika;
• Mountain ranges are grouped on the north-eastern section (the Eastern Arc), and a central and southern section (the Southern Arc);
• Coastal area: 1400km long, blossoming and palm-fringed with islands of Zanzibar (Unguja Island), Pemba and Mafia;
• Largest river: Rufiji;
• Major lakes: Lake Victoria, Lake Tanganyika, Lake Nyasa (Malawi);

Climate

Tropical, with the average temperature in the coastal area from 26–31 degrees Celsius with hot days cooled by sea breezes (metric converter) and in central plateau from 20-27 degrees Celsius with hot days and cool nights.

There are two rainy seasons: longer (masika) from mid-March to May, and short (vuli) in November. The hottest months are from October to February.

Population

36 million people with 51% of women and 46% under age 15. The national growth rate is 1.72%.

Life expectancy at birth is 44.5 years (male 43.3 years, female 45.8 years).

Tribes

There are more than 130 tribes; the Most widespread include Sukuma, Nyamwezi, Makonde, Haya, Chagga; smaller ones include Maasai, Haadzabe. There is also an important Asian and Arabic population.

Capital

Dodoma (administravtive capital).

Other Major Cities

Dar es Salaam (business capital), Mwanza, Mbeya, Arusha, Bukoba etc.;

Language

Official languages are Swahili and English; tribes also speak their own languages.

Literacy

78% of the total population aged 15 years and over can read and write Swahili (Kiswahili), English or Arabic.

Religion

• Christian: 40-45%;
• Muslim: 35-40%;
• Hindus, Sikhs, indigenous beliefs etc. 15-25%;
• Zanzibar: 99% Muslim;

Currency

Tanzanian Shiling (TZS), which is divided into 100 cents. Paper notes: 10.000, 5.000, 2.000, 1.000 and 500; Coins: 200, 100, 50, 20, 10, 5 and 1.

Government

Multiparty Democracy with CCM (Chama Cha Mapinduzi; Party of the Revolution) as a current Ruling Party.

National Flag

Black for the People, Green for the Land, Blue for the Adjoining Sea and Golden for the Mineral wealth.

Time Zone

GMT + 3 hours with no daylight saving.

International Dialing Code

• County Telephone Code: +255;
• International Exit Code: 00;

Internet Domain

.tz

Electricity & Plugs

230 V, 50 cycles, AC; in general the plugs are British three-square-pin and two-round-pin. Adapters are available.

National Resources

• Minerals: gold, diamonds, tanzanite and other gemstones, nickel, iron, coal, natural gas, spring water, soda ash, salt;
• Wildlife and Tourism: 12 National Parks, the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, 13 Game Reserves, 38 Game Controlled Areas, about 120 National Cultural Heritage Sites;
• Fisheries: in three large lakes (Lake Victoria, Lake Tanganyika, Lake Nyasa), Indian Ocean coastline, rivers and wetlands the potential yield of fish is estimated to be 730.000 tons annually (present catch is 350.000 tons annually);
• Forestry and Beekeeping: non-reserved forest-land (1,903.8 sq km), forest/woodlands with national parks etc. (200 sq km), and gazetted forest reserves (1,251.7 sq km).

GDP

270 US$ per capita.

Major Exports

• Agriculture: Coffee, tea, cotton, cashew, sisal, cloves;
• Minerals: gold, diamonds, tanzanite and other gemstones, nickel, iron, coal.

Distances

Tanzania is a large country and distances between cities or national parks can be lengthy (metric converter). Distances shown are in km.

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Unguja is in the Indian Ocean about 40 km east of Bagamoyo on the Tanzanian mainland. The slightly hilly island itself is about 85 km long and between 20 – 30 km wide at its widest points. Most of the population lives in the more fertile regions of the north and west. The eastern part of the island is arid and covered in coral rag (rock made of coral)making it unattractive for farming, but the beaches and the reefs on the eastern coasts make them ideal for fishing villages, tourist guesthouses, and resorts.

Pemba, located about 50 Kms north of Unguja, is far less populated. Known also by its Arabic name, Al Khundra meaning Green Island, Pemba is covered in steep hills full of palms, clove and rubber trees, rice paddies and the Ngezi Forest in the north. There are many pure, beautiful beaches in and around the numerous inlets and coves. Tourism is not as developed on Pemba as it is on Unguja but resorts are being built and the infrastructure will undoubtedly improve as tourism increases.

People

The people of Zanzibar are predominantly Muslim, about 95% of the population being followers of Islam. The remaining percentage is a mix of Christians, Hindus and followers of various other religions. Swahili is the official and national language of Tanzania but English is also spoken in Zanzibar, and a percentage of the population also has a working knowledge of Arabic. The population consists of people from the following ancestries: African, Persian, Omani (and other Arab states), and Asian. The local economy is based on agriculture and fishing. The population of the archipelago is estimated at over 740,000 while the population of Unguja is estimated at almost 450,000, forty per cent of which live in Stone Town. The literacy rate in Zanzibar is very high.

Climate

Zanzibar is a few degrees south of the equator and enjoys a tropical climate that is largely dominated by the Indian Ocean monsoons. The kasikazi winds are from the north and occur in the winter months bringing the short rains.

The long rains, known as mwaka, arrive in March and last until late May or June. January through March is generally hot and dry with little rainfall. April through June is wet because of the long rains which start to taper off in May.
July through October are ideal months for visiting Zanzibar because the average temperature is 25 C, the air is dry and breezy and there is little rainfall. November and December are when the short rains appear.

Average rainfall in Zanzibar is about 165 cm (65 inches) and the average temperature is 26 C (79 F).

The name Zanzibar came from a combination of two Arabic words, ‘Zinj’, meaning black, and ‘barr’, being the Arabic word for land, the result meaning ‘Land of the Blacks’.

Visas/taxes

Please note that you will require a visa for Tanzania at a cost of $ 50 per person and you will also have to pay airport departure taxes of $25.
visas airport taxes, etc.
Visas can be obtained in advance or upon arrival at the airport in Tanzania.

Health

Yellow Fever vaccinations are mandatory, and we recommend anti–malarial tablets, especially during the rainy season. Most prescription drugs can be bought affordably and with ease over the counter in Stone town.. Personal Insurance is advised.

Official Language

Swahili is the main language here. English is also widely spoken and understood.

How to get to Zanzibar

Getting to Zanzibar by Air from the Rest of the World at present, Kenya airways (together with KLM) Air Tanzania, South African airways, offer international scheduled flights to Zanzibar. Several large carriers fly into Dar es Salaam, which is only a short trip by air or sea from Zanzibar. Amongst them are British Airways, Emirates Airlines, Gulf air, Ethiopian airline.

Domestic Flights

Coastal Aviation, Precision Air, and Zan air, offers a range of scheduled flights between Zanzibar and Tanzania’s main cities.

Getting to Zanzibar by Sea

There are several sea ferry companies that ply the waters between Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam. They’re Ferris as Azam Marine, Sea express, Sea bus, and you can book ferry tickets through us. Links to these companies can be found in the Touring Zanzibar section website.

Tours

Tours of Zanzibar Island are a rewarding experience with cultural sights and natural beauty on the itinerary.

History

For a small island in the southern waters of the Indian Ocean, Zanzibar has a long and unexpected history. Easily accessible for the people of the African mainland, the Zanzibar islands are believed to have been settled first by Africans, some three to four thousand years ago. Centuries later the island began a history of hosting foreigners from Egypt, Greece, Persia, Arabia, India, China and Europe. The first recorded visit to Zanzibar is from about 60 AD and appears in a work titled “The Periplus of the Erythaean Sea”, written by a Greek merchant who was living in Alexandria. Claudius Ptolemy, the famous Greek geographer living in Egypt, also made mention of Zanzibar in his work at about 150 AD, although the island was referred to under another name. Trade routes from Egypt, Roman Europe and the African coast, including Zanzibar, were, by the time of Ptolemy’s writing, extending to Indo-Chinese ports.

It is believed that Bantu people (Africans speaking Bantu languages) settled in Zanzibar somewhere around the 4th century AD. By the 7th century AD, Islam had made its way to Zanzibar by way of Arab and Persian immigrants who were fleeing political strife, war, and famine in their own lands. The Arabs mixed with the local African population and along with trading goods, traded words as well, which eventually resulted in a language called Kiswahili today. The people referred to themselves and their culture as Swahili (thought to be named from the Arabic word sahil meaning coast) and thus the language was named as well. For the following centuries, the Arabs and Persians continued to trade with their homelands while marrying into local society in Zanzibar and along the East African coast. Typical cargoes bound for Persia or Arabia consisted of gold, animal pelts, tortoise shells, ivory, ebony, and slaves; return ships contained porcelains, beads, and cloth. The Swahili culture reached its peak in the 13th century and it prospered up until the arrival of the Europeans in the late 15th century. Chinese shipping logs show entries from junks having visited Zanzibar harbor as early as the 13th century.

The oldest trace of Islam on the island is in Kizimkazi, the southern-most village on Unguja, where there’s a mosque with inscriptions dating back to 1107 AD. The mosque has been renovated several times but the old inscriptions are still there and available for viewing by tourists. Remember to remove shoes, keep shoulders and knees covered, speak quietly, and leave a donation. Women are allowed to enter this mosque.

By the 15th century, Zanzibar was its own Sultanate but this independence did not last. In 1498 Vasco da Gama’s expedition from Portugal began a stronghold over the whole East African Coast that lasted for two centuries. During this time, Jesuits, Dominicans, and Augustinians built churches and tried to convert the local populace to Roman Catholicism, but were largely unsuccessful. The Portuguese did not send enough men to protect their new territory and by the late 1600s they had lost their last East African holding by surrendering Mombasa on the now Kenyan coast. There is little evidence left that the Portuguese dominated Zanzibar for two hundred years although there are still bullfights on Pemba, some words left in Swahili that originated from Portuguese, and the patterns of the kanga (ubiquitous local cloth) are said to have originated from Portuguese handkerchiefs.

The Bullfights in Pemba, assumed to be a cultural holdover from the Portuguese era, do not result in the death of the animal. The bulls are Indian and not nearly as fat and fierce as those seen in bullfights in Europe.

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As two of the world’s most highly-rated safari destinations, a trip to Tanzania or Kenya offers the experience of a lifetime all year round. The ‘best time’ of year to visit East Africa depends on what you hope to experience most during your trip.

In this article:

• Best Weather and Ideal Safari Conditions
• Best Rates and Off-Season Perks: Short rains, Long rains, Shoulder Season
• Best Time for Wildlife Viewing: The Great Wildebeest Migration, Calving Season and River Crossings
• Hippopotamus Spectacle
• Chimpanzee Tracking
• Ngorongoro Crater – Wildlife Wonderland All Year Round
• Masai Mara and Kenya’s Safari Secret
• Birdwatching
• Best Time for the Beach
• Best Time to Climb Kilimanjaro or Mount Kenya
• Where to Visit – Kenya or Tanzania?

Best Weather and Ideal Safari Conditions – Dry Season (June-October)

As the rain subsides and mighty rivers transform into shallow pools, Kenya and Tanzania’s national parks truly come to life. Thick vegetation thins out and animals congregate around scattered sources of water, giving safari-goers the prime conditions to spot wildlife.

While early mornings and evenings might be cold, the temperature during this season is fairly predictable. Thermometer readings are often around 23°C/73°F, reaching a high of 28°C/82°F in the coastal areas.

Many visitors prefer the moderate dry season over the hot, humid and rainy summer months. Another benefit to consider during the dry season of winter is fewer mosquitos and a smaller chance of catching malaria.

There is, however, the risk of an occasional cold front in July when temperatures can reach close to freezing. The five-month window also draws the biggest crowds, which is the biggest disadvantage of the peak season.

Best Rates and Off-Season Perks – Wet Season (November-May)

The dry landscapes of Tanzania and Kenya are transformed into a lush, green wonderland in the wet season. Temperatures increase during this period and usually range between 24°C/75°F and 27°C/81°F, reaching highs of 30°C/86°F along the coast.

There are three types of rainy periods in this season: Short rains during November and December, Long rains in March and April a Shoulder season in January and February.

Short rains (November-December)

Afternoon thunderstorms are often expected to take place, but safaris are unlikely to be impacted. For this reason, the short rainy season is still considered an excellent time to plan a trip to Tanzania or Kenya.

The first two weeks of December are considered a highly underrated time to visit. With many travellers flying to East Africa for the festive season, the lower demand over early December can result in good deals and special off-peak rates.

The landscape will be spectacularly lush after the November rains and safaris can be planned around the usual afternoon showers.

Long rains (March-April)

The long rains usher in the peak of the wet season. While it may still be a good time to visit Tanzania or Kenya, your trip will be impacted by the amount of rain and the type of conditions the area receives that year. Tourists who find hot, humid conditions unpleasant should preferably avoid this season.

If you’re up for an adventure, there are major advantages of travelling here during this time. Prices are reduced dramatically and with crowds being dispersed – you’ll have thrilling wildlife sightings all to yourself.

Shoulder Season – Between the Rainy Seasons (January-February)

The start of the year is often a time that is overlooked by many people planning a trip to East Africa. A dry spell usually takes place during this time between the end of the short rains and the start of the long rains.

The green savannah and fewer visitors make this an excellent time to avoid the crowds. Generally considered to be the ‘shoulder season’, festive season rates have dropped and Wildebeest calving season is about to begin in the Serengeti. Many seasoned safari-goers rates the shoulder season as the best time to plan a trip to Tanzania or Kenya.

Best Time for Wildlife Viewing

Both Kenya and Tanzania are home to an abundance of national parks – many of which offer world-renowned wildlife encounters. The wildlife spectacle that you’d like to see most will greatly affect the optimal time of year to visit Eastern Africa.

The Great Migration

For most travellers, the best time to visit the Serengeti in Tanzania or Masai Mara in Kenya revolves heavily around the movement of the Great Wildebeest Migration.

Understanding the pattern of the Wildebeest Migration will help you choose the best time of year to visit the Serengeti. In general, the migration tends to be in the Southern Serengeti for the calving season from February to mid-March.

The best months to see the migration are from June-September as animals concentrate around watering holes and rivers.

Calving Season – Late January-February

As the migration slows down, this period not only offers a chance to witness the wildebeest drop their young but also brings with it an unprecedented opportunity for predator sightings. With the lurking big cats looking to strike when the herds are most vulnerable.

Generally, April-May is regarded as the low season when conditions are least favourable for wildlife viewing.

River Crossing – June-August and September

From June-July, it’s easier to spot the herds in the park’s Western Corridor, as they gather near the Grumeti River.  From August-September, the grazers move into the Northern Serengeti and Kenya’s Masai Mara National Reserve.

During this season you have the chance of witnessing the famous river crossings across the crocodile-infested Grumeti River from June-July. As well as the crossing of the Mara River from August-September as they enter Kenya. The sweeping herds then head back down to the Southern Serengeti, and the cycle starts again.

See our ultimate guide to the best time to visit the Serengeti.

Dry Season Hippopotamus Spectacle

If it’s a spectacular hippo sighting you’re after, Tanzania’s Katavi National Park won’t leave you disappointed. As water levels dwindle with the dry season months (June-October) and floodplains retreat, the Katavi National Park truly comes to life.

The marshy floodplains of the park are home to Tanzania’s densest concentration of crocodiles and hippos. As these floodplains retreat during the dry season, the sight of hippos by their hundreds cramming into dwindling pools is truly a spectacle to witness.

Dry Season Chimpanzee Tracking

A major drawcard to Tanzania is its chimpanzees. This species can only be found in Africa, with most chimps living along the equatorial belt in the rainforest areas. One of these being the majestic Mahale Mountains National Park.

The best time to visit the Mahale Mountains is during the dry season, from June-October. Expeditions to see the chimps are most fruitful during this time, especially towards the back end of the dry season (August-October). The chimps are normally closer to shore and forest paths, which makes looking for them easier to negotiate.

Ngorongoro Crater – Wildlife Wonderland All Year Round

With its status as the world’s largest inactive volcanic caldera, the Ngorongoro Crater is a must-see for most travellers planning a trip to Tanzania.

Fortunately, the enclosed nature of the Crater makes wildlife viewings spectacular all year round. The general ‘high season’ of the Ngorongoro Crater takes place for most of the year from July right up until March. While the dry season is generally regarded as the best time to visit the Ngorongoro Crater, a safari here at any time of year will not leave you disappointed.

Masai Mara and Kenya’s Safari Secret

Safaris in the Masai Mara are enhanced from August to October as millions of wildebeest leave the Serengeti and cross the famous Mara River into Kenya. The herds remain in Kenya until October when they head southwards again.

One of Kenya’s best-kept safari secrets, however, is a lesser-known local migration. The spectacle unfolds between January-March as herds of wildebeest arrive in Mara from the Loita hills.

With an abundant population of wildlife, a trip to any of Kenya’s parks (most notably the Masai Mara, Amboseli, Nairobi and Lake Nakuru National Park) will seldom leave you disappointed all year round.

Birdwatching

The varied landscapes across Kenya and Tanzania attract a wide range of bird species. While bird watching is considered to be good all year round, the ideal season is from November-April. During this time European and North African migratory bird species make East Africa their seasonal home.

This is good news for bird enthusiasts who during this time of year get to enjoy off-season rates.

Best Time for a Beach Holiday

Following the general guideline for any trip to East Africa, the best time to visit the Tanzanian island of Zanzibar or the Kenyan coastline is in the dry season from June-October. This is especially true for travellers looking to combine their beach holiday with a safari.

If you’re willing to wait out daily showers, then the wet season (November-May) can be an excellent time to enjoy the perks of quieter beaches and off-season rates.

The start of the year is often a time that is overlooked by many people planning a trip to East Africa’s beaches. A dry spell usually takes place during this time between the end of the short rains and the start of the long rains (January-February).

Best Time to Climb Kilimanjaro or Mount Kenya

It is possible to trek Kilimanjaro or Mount Kenya all year round. However, certain months are characterised by colder weather, more rain and potentially loads of snow on the summit.

The dry spell from January-March is one of the best times to take on the challenge. Not only is there a small chance of rain, but temperatures on the summit are generally more favourable. The dry season from June-October also provides ideal trekking conditions.

Where to Visit – Kenya or Tanzania?

As two of the world’s most iconic safari destinations, both Kenya and Tanzania are home to an abundance of wildlife. While the countries share similar climates, wildlife species and vegetation; there are notable differences that may help you decide where you want to travel most.

Original Article

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The South-east trade winds travelling over the Indian Ocean carry loads of moisture. When they hit Kilimanjaro, around March, then are forced upwards where they condense, form clouds and precipitation. This means March through to May is the wettest season on Kilimanjaro. The southern slopes are particularly susceptible to rain during this time in the year.

If you are confined to a trekking date in April or May we suggest you consider the Rongai route, which departs from the Northern end of Kilimanjaro and is generally drier than the southern route options during these months.

Anti-trade winds from the North-east carry very little moisture but blow strongly. The strength of these winds which last from April through to October keep the South-east trade winds below them, hence these months are usually dry and cloud cover and precipitation is generally restricted to the lower slopes.

Best Trekking Months

There are two distinct trekking seasons which constitute the best time to climb Kilimanjaro. They are January-March and June-October.

January-March is generally colder than June-October and there is a higher probability of encountering snow on the summit. For some this might be seen as a negative, but the benefits of a January-March trek is that the slopes are often quieter at this time of the year.

The June-October trekking season coincides with the summer holidays in Europe and N.America and hence certain routes are often quite busy.

March, April and November are the wettest months on Kilimanjaro, and not ideal of trekking.

Snow fall and cold temperatures are common during December-May.

The chart below shows average snowfall in cm on the summit of Kilimanjaro

Altitude and Climate Zones

Another factor that is important to consider is the variation in weather conditions as you ascend Kilimanjaro.

There are four distinct climatic zones on Kilimanjaro.

• The rainforest zone (~800m-3,000m) is warm and humid. Rain is common in the zone, particularly during the wet season and temperatures average around 12-15 degrees Celsius at 2,870m.
• The second zone is often called the low alpine area (~3,000m-4,200m) and is a semi-arid zone where average temperatures range between 5-10 degrees Celsius at 3,630m.
• The high alpine zone (4,200m-5,000) is desert-like. Here temperatures average around the freezing point at 4,970m, and
• At the summit in the glacial zone (above 5,000m) temperatures average around -6 degrees Celsius.

Although the summit temperature doesn’t sound too cold, wind chill is a major factor. You are almost guaranteed relatively high winds.

Moreover, the effects of cold temperatures at high altitude are more pronounced as your body expends more effort trying to get your skin and vital organs well-oxygenated in an oxygen depleted environment.

This results in vasoconstriction near the extremities (like your hands, feet and nose) and means that you will feel the cold a lot more at high altitude. In other words -6 degrees Celsius can feel like -20!

The chart below shows average monthly temperatures at four points across the climate zones.

Original Article

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Africa is an enthralling continent. It will never be dull or boring. Not even in the quiet moments. Quite the opposite. You’ll often experience something incredible or jaw-dropping in the quiet moments. Things that somehow make any other destination dreary in comparison.

That’s part of why we love Africa. But, we also want to celebrate the African people, their land, and their often simplistic and very courageous outlook. An attitude of ‘we will make a plan’ or ‘let’s see what we can do’ that ensures they always do make a plan despite every and any circumstance.

Africa is an ideal post-COVID destination because there are so many remote places and wilderness areas where you can get away from it all. Out of the millions of brilliant reasons to visit Africa, I have chosen to highlight just three.

3 Reasons why you should travel to Africa on your next trip, rather than anywhere else

1. The Beautiful Landscapes of Africa – scenic places to detox and rejuvenate

Computer screens. Mobile devices. Televisions. Continuous noise pollution. Air pollution. Long work hours and stress, stress, stress. We are constantly bombarded by news feeds. And every day we hear about COVID and elections, crime and cruelty. How we should be ALL things to ALL people at ALL times to prevent yet another generation of people beset with issues. What we are all wanting is a place of rest and a place where cell phones and WiFi are definitely not available.

Africa is the answer to this cry. And it has something for everyone. To start with, Africa has plenty of space. Enough space for people to get away from it all. To escape and not worry about social distancing and hand sanitizing at every turn. We have space galore accompanied by endless skies.

Even more so if you take a private trip, designed for you. In this case, you will be the ONLY person or group in already secluded areas. So, social distancing is natural and stores non-existent. You’ll be washing fine dust off your skin before eating delicious meals. Rather sanitising like crazy. Or, before snacks with glorious wines while you watch magnificent sunsets. The African sunrises – over the oceans, mountains and savannahs – are also phenomenal. They are completely different from the reds, oranges, golds and purples of the sunsets. The colours of dawn are silvers, greys and pinks. And there’s often a slight breeze that comes up before dawn to herald yet another PERFECT day in Africa.

As your trip progresses, you will find it easier to get up early and watch the dawn break. That’s because you’ll sleep deeply and get into the rhythm of early nights. Dark nights under star-studded skies and cooler temperatures also make for restful sleep. Along with the sounds of nature – the chorus of crickets and barking geckos that lull you to sleep. Your body clock will realign and your senses will awaken. Each day in the African bush brings new wonders to explore. Travelling through Africa is like opening a book of marvels. Distances are huge and the vistas incredible. We have the oldest desert in the world, the Namib, an endless sea of sand and petrified trees. It also has some of the highest sand dunes, and the colours will make interior designers swoon. It’s a photographers heaven.

There are the sociable weavers with ingenious homes that almost topple the trees dotting the Namib. Then there’s the White Lady Spiders and Golden Moles and the proud Oryx. All coming together to make the landscape so very special and one of my personal favourites. The antithesis of this desert landscape is the powerful Victoria Falls. A massive waterfall on the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. Here 500 million litres of waterfall 108 metres over the edge, in season.

Another completely different place to the Namib is the Okavango Delta in Botswana. It is an inland wetland with lush waterways, small islands and secluded lagoons. This pristine delta attracts huge numbers of wildlife. And, the channels dotted with water lilies and the soft glide of the ‘mokoro’ bring such a feeling of peace over one.

Delta mokoro trip in Botswana

Africa has countless beautiful beaches too. Starting in the Cape of South Africa we have the incredible beaches of Camps Bay and Clifton. Then there are the untouched beaches of the Wild Coast. The golden-sand beaches of the Sunshine Coast and KwaZulu-Natal’s subtropical coast. In the Cape, you’ll get fragrant fynbos and Table Mountain as a backdrop. And in the KwaZulu-Natal, it’s verdant fields and rolling hills that stretch to the jagged peaks of the Drakensberg Mountains. In neighbouring Mozambique, you’ll find unbelievably white beaches and turquoise waters. Ocean waters teeming with green turtles, manta rays and whale sharks. And estuaries hosting sea horses where the diving is amazing. The coral reefs here are also some of the best in the World.

If you love beaches then don’t miss out on Zanzibar islands. Azure waters, white sands, traditional dhows and island spices. These all make Zanzibar one of Africa’s top holiday destinations. Then, there are the remote beaches of the rugged Skeleton Coast in Namibia. Scattered with the wrecks of many ships that that succumbed to the wild Atlantic.

Africa’s landscapes are diverse. We have deserts and floodplains, savannahs and mountains and winelands and beaches. These lands call for exploring. No matter where you find your rest, Africa offers it with welcoming, open arms.

2. Africa’s Wildlife – the Big 5, the Little 5 and everything between

Africa is where your imagination will meet reality. Wildlife documentaries, TV shows, nature magazines, school projects, zoos and museums will all come to life on safari in Africa. You’ll get to see all shapes and sizes of wild animals. From the greatest land animal, the African Elephant (of almost 7 tons), to the diminutive elephant shrew. From the icon of African skies, the Fish Eagle, to the little Cape White Eye. From the colossal Whale Shark to the fragile seahorse – Africa has them all in profusion.

Africa is a destination that brings people back time and time again. At first, you come to see the famous Big 5 (elephant, lion, leopard, buffalo and rhinoceros). And then, the Little 5 (elephant shrew, ant lion, leopard tortoise, buffalo weaver and rhino beetle). At first, it is all about the Big 5, but then you realise how much is NOT included in that very small list.

Animals you have heard about and read about and dreamt about – the giraffe and hippo, cheetah and zebra. Even the antelopes take you by surprise with their variety and numbers! There are so many kinds of them. Ranging from the delicate duiker with its tiny hooves that can fit into a teacup. To the magnificent Eland that looks as if it has stepped straight off a bushman painting on a cave wall. Just when you feel you have seen enough impalas, you chance upon the black-faced impala. And, immediately they aren’t commonplace but a precious inhabitant of the continent.

What about the primates? There is a list of course and this is where we make an appearance, if you choose to of course. Gorilla, chimpanzee, baboon, lemur, monkey and human. All found in Africa. The great African Mountain Gorilla, an endangered species, lives in Central Africa. Here wild troops with silverbacks inhabit only a few, small forest locations. Seeing these gentle apes is a rare privilege that should be on anyone’s bucket list! They are social and intelligent animals that are fascinating to watch in the wild.

Gorilla trekking in Africa’s rainforests is also easy to combine with a Big 5 safari in one of Africa’s most legendary game reserves. People often go to Masai Mara in Kenya and the Serengeti in Tanzania when they go gorilla trekking. The zebra and the wildebeest (gnu) are also a common sight in most game reserves and parks in Africa. But, until you see over 750 000 zebras stampeding with 1.2 million wildebeest; you will not believe how many of them there are. Nor how awe-inspiring the natural phenomenon of the Great Migration is. This annual wildlife spectacle happens after the rains. When the herbivores migrate in search of sweet grasses. Watching them migrate across Serengeti and Masai Mara, in a never-ending cycle of survival, is a spellbinding sight.

There are smaller migrations too that are no less impressive. Such as the Kasanka bat migration in Zambia, from the end of October to December. Here 10 million straw-coloured fruit bats migrate at dusk for about 60 days. Then there’s the zebra migration in Botswana which happens twice a year after the rains. It sees these striped animals move from the Nxai / Makgadikgadi areas to the Boteti and back again. This photogenic migration starts in the dry winter season. And continues in November when the rains come and the zebra herds retrace their steps. In Kenya, the soda lakes of Nakuru and Bogoria attract striking flamingo flocks. It’s the algae and shrimp in the shallows of these Rift Valley Lakes that gives the birds their vibrant pink plumage. In East Africa, April to June is best for birdwatching. But, you can see other wildlife all-year-round in this area, so it’s always a good time to visit.

Closer to (my) home we have the Western Leopard Toad. This little toad spends most of the year in residential gardens and ponds. But when breeding season arrives they move into the breeding areas. This is usually signalled by the males calling. A call that sounds like a very loud snore. So, when you hear snoring all around, get ready to brave the elements and rescue toads. Because they get into danger as they cross the streets and migrate in search of clean water for breeding. These leopard toads are indicator species. They show us if we are polluting our dams and rivers in the Cape, so they are important.

Next, there’s the Humpback Whale migration of Madagascar which is a sight to behold. These massive cetaceans swim from the cold Atlantic (where they feed) to the warm waters (where they breed and give birth). What a privilege to view these giants of the deep.

Once you have visited Africa and seen the sheer number of land and marine animals, turn your gaze to our skies. The diverse habitats of Africa are home to an incredible array of bird species. We even have Big 5 bird lists for many regions. Such as the Big 5 Birds of Kruger – Martial Eagle, Lappet-faced Vulture, Saddle Billed Stork, Fish Eagle and Kori Bustard. If one looks at the list for Botswana it also includes the stunning Pels Fishing Owl. There’s also the list of the Top 10 Most Iconic Birds. They are the Martial Eagle, Cape Parrot and Cape Vulture, Secretarybird and Red Bishop. As well as the Blue Crane, Cape Sugar Bird, Verreaux’s Eagle, Knysna Loerie and Pin-tailed Whydah.

All these bird lists and we haven’t even mentioned the birds you see daily in gardens, urban parks and small reserves. Like the Burchell’s Coucal, known as the rainbird. And the African Hoopoe with its distinctive black, white and rust colouring. The lilac-breasted roller, an integral part of the African bushveld. This pretty bird often flies alongside safari vehicles to catch the crickets and other insects disturbed by the wheels. You’re also likely to see guinea fowl and francolin. You can find these everywhere – from the bushveld to urban parks and large gardens. There are so many birds in Southern Africa! Most homes have a bird book, a pair of binoculars and a list of birds in progress.

We have list after list after list of creatures to see, so you will never get bored. Come and search out the Big 5, Little 5, Big 5 Birds, Ugly 5, Shy 5, Marine 5 and Impossible 5. The lists are endless.

 3. The People of Africa – the traditional African tribes and the multitude of colourful cultures we take pride in

Africa is home to an estimated 3000 tribes. And, each of them has different languages, cultures and traditions. Some of the tribes are well-known. Such as the Zulu, the largest of the ethnic groups in Africa of almost 11 million people. This proud tribe lives in South Africa where most people know about their great military genius, Chaka Zulu. Even today, the Zulu stand tall and proud, many of them having a distinct royal air about them.

The Maasai people of Kenya are even more well-known. These proud nomadic people prize their cattle and will fiercely defend their flocks and way of life. The bright red colours of their robes are a unique symbol of Africa and its tribes. I remember seeing the Maasai for the first time. It was as we sped by in a safari vehicle on the way to the Masai Mara reserve. There was a group of about seven Maasai, standing under a great boughed tree which stretched out over the exposed plain. The red of their robes created a patch of colour in the arid landscape. They looked grounded, as if they belonged to the earth and always would. A fleeting sight that will remain branded in my memory.

The San and the Batswana of the Kalahari have a culture that is centuries old. These gentle people with their distinctive faces and wiry bodies are phenomenal trackers. They are so in tune with the earth and all its living creatures. Thanks to huge interest in the past, people have made an effort to record their stories (the oral tales passed down through the generations). They’re enchanting stories about; Why the moon waxes and wanes, Why the leopard has spots and Why the hyena laughs in the face of danger. These are incredible myths and legends that often have a lesson for the youth. We need to keep recording these stories and keep them alive.

Alongside the San Bushman, there are also the Herero and Nama, Damara and Himba of Namibia. Of these, the Himba is the only tribe that still lives a traditional lifestyle in Southern Africa. Their beautiful jewellery, red ochre hairstyles and body ornamentation mark significant life events. Such as weddings and births, but also deaths. The Herero women wear colourful dresses and horn-shaped hats as proud reminders of the German-Herero war. A war that almost completely wiped the Herero tribe out. The dresses are a subversion of the ‘rulers’ fashion at the time. And the horned-hat a symbol of their tradition as herders.

We have already met the pastoral Maasai and now we meet the hunter-gatherers, the Hadza. This indigenous tribe of Tanzania has an encyclopaedic knowledge of edible plants and grasses. And unrivalled skill in making homemade bows and arrows.

In neighbouring Kenya, where the Maasai live, you’ll also find the Samburu and the Swahili. Here they have implemented innovative land management systems that give tribes traditional use of the land while conserving wildlife. These community conservation arrangements have grabbed the attention of many around the world. They’ve also allowed the tribes to share their traditions and beliefs, as well as their striking artworks. Many villages now have local enterprises. Small businesses that enable the tribes to stay true to their local cultures and improve their quality of life at the same time.

Moving on to the Horn of Africa, travelling to Ethiopia is like stepping back in time. It is one of my favourite destinations. In this ancient land, there are still very authentic tribal areas in the Omo Valley region. With eight traditional tribes (the Karo, Kwegu, Hamer, Kwegu, Bodi, Daasanach, Nyangatom and Suri) still living at the lower end of the Omo River. This is an area where the African tribes of your imagination come to life in full colour. Here tribal people still cut and fill their lips and earlobes with large discs and plugs. You’ll see plaited hair covered in mud and animal fats. Encounter people who dress and behave as they have since their societies formed.

Even in the cities and towns, the phenomenal old architecture, churches, paintings and frescoes will captivate you. As well as the old practices, such as the feeding of the hyenas outside the city walls in Harar. The ancient and mysterious sights will make one want to pinch yourself to make sure you are awake. It feels as if you have stepped back in time or stumbled onto a movie set. One thing is for sure – wherever you go in Ethiopia, there will be extraordinary, big, white smiles to greet you.

That’s why you should travel to Africa

There are thousands of other places to see and many, many more animals to list and tribes to meet. Africa is a continent of never-ending surprises and adventures! No matter who you are or where you come from, you cannot but be captivated by AFRICA! It is the MOST incredible continent.

“One cannot resist the lure of Africa.” – Rudyard Kipling

Your time in Africa will always be better if you let your heartbeat follow the rhythms of sunrise, sunset and starry skies. And if you keep your heart and eyes open. I promise you will leave changed and you will long to return. Very few can visit Africa and not yearn to come back.

Get in touch for help planning your trip to Africa. We’re happy to share our expert advice about travelling to our remarkable continent.

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Home to the world’s greatest variety and concentrations of large mammals, 1,500 bird species and thousands of colourful insects and reptiles, East Africa is the ultimate safari destination. But there is more than wildlife.

Bisected by the magnificent Great Rift Valley, this landscape encompasses lakes large enough to swallow a small European country, extinct volcanoes whose snow-capped peaks tower kilometres above the surrounding plains, and a pristine Indian Ocean coastline stretching more than 2,000km between Somalia and Mozambique.

The variety of East Africa’s cultures and the depth of its history are often overlooked by visitors. The plains of the East African interior are regarded as the cradle of mankind, while the ruined medieval cities of the coast were once the great centres of maritime trade and the source of most of the world’s gold. Little-visited rock-hewn churches and stelae dot the Ethiopian Highlands, an area with a history as absorbing as it is obscure.

East Africa has something for every taste and budget: five-star game lodges and remote jungle campsites; vibrant modern cities and traditional Swahili trading towns; scuba diving on coral reefs and camel safaris in arid northern Kenya; game walks on the Serengeti plains and gorilla tracking in the rainforests of Uganda; wild mountain trails and the perfect palm-lined beaches. It is a region of inexhaustible fascination and variety.

Planning a trip

When to go

There is no bad time to visit, but there are definite advantages to being there during the dry season when game viewing is at its best, dirt roads are less likely to be rained out, and malaria-carrying mosquitoes are relatively inactive.

Getting there

Nairobi, the capital of Kenya, has the region’s busiest international airport, and is the normal point of entry for people visiting several countries in the region, largely because it is easier to get discounted tickets from Europe to Nairobi than elsewhere in East Africa. However, several airlines fly to all the other capital cities in the region, and cheap charter flights are sometimes available to Mombasa and on the Kenya coast. The best place for discounted fares to East Africa is London.

Health

Malaria is a concern. Take prophylactic drugs, make every effort to avoid being bitten by mosquitoes, and – bearing in mind that prophylactic-resistant strains are widespread – consider carrying a cure in your medical kit. A travel clinic can advise you about the most effective drugs.

Bilharzia can be caught by swimming in fresh water, particularly lakes or slow-running rivers. You are unlikely to catch bilharzia if you spend less than ten minutes in the water and dry off vigorously immediately afterwards.

You may be asked to show an International Vaccination Certificate for yellow fever when you arrive. No other vaccinations are mandatory, but it is wise to have shots for polio, typhoid, tetanus and arguably hepatitis A, meningitis and rabies.

Safety

Crime is only a serious concern in a few specific places, and violent crime against tourists is fairly unusual, though inevitably on the increase. The crime capital of East Africa is undoubtedly Nairobi – liberal use of taxis is advised. Other places with bad reputations include parts of the Kenya coast; Bagamayo and Dar es Salaam in Tanzania; Nkhata Bay in Malawi; and Addis Ababa in Ethiopia. Elsewhere, there is always a risk of casual theft at markets and bus stations, but this can be countered by keeping valuables hidden.

Malawi, Tanzania and Kenya have all enjoyed a high level of political stability since the 1960s. Most parts of Uganda and Ethiopia have also been stable in recent years. There may be a security risk attached to travelling in the remote northern half of Kenya, parts of Uganda north of the Nile, the Somali border area of eastern Ethiopia and the Rwandan border areas of Tanzania and Uganda. Few travellers visit these areas, but those who do should seek advice.

Visas

Nationals of the UK and most Commonwealth and EC countries don’t require visas to spend up to three months in Kenya, Malawi or Uganda. British nationals must obtain a visa in advance to enter Tanzania or Ethiopia. Other nationals should check visa requirements at the appropriate embassy or high commission.

Time

GMT +3, except Malawi (GMT +2).

Languages

Hundreds of languages are spoken in the region. The lingua franca of Tanzania, Kenya and to a lesser degree Uganda is Swahili, a Bantu language that spread from the coast to the interior along 19th century caravan routes. Swahili is replaced by Amharic in Ethiopia and Chichewa in Malawi. English is widely spoken in all but the most remote areas.

Accommodation

Tourist-class hotels or game lodges charging international rates are found in the capitals of all countries and at most major tourist sites in Kenya and Tanzania. Upmarket accommodation in the other countries is limited – there are probably less than ten quality hotels in each of Uganda and Malawi, while Ethiopia’s nominally tourist-class hotels would struggle to get a one-star rating elsewhere – though they’re generally clean and reasonably priced.

Budget travellers are well catered for throughout – even the smallest towns often have fine or six basic lodgings with rooms costing from £1-3. In most East African towns of any size you can find a mid-range hotel with self-contained rooms for around £10-15.

It’s worth thinking about carrying a tent in Kenya, Uganda, Malawi or northern Tanzania, less so in Ethiopia or southern Tanzania. People on organised camping safaris in any country should be supplied with equipment.

Money

Carry the bulk of your money in travellers cheques, though some cash will be useful if you need to change money outside of banking hours. Cash should be US dollars; travellers cheques in any major currency. Credit cards are accepted at most upmarket hotels, by safari companies and similar organisations.

A regional overview

Kenya

Area: 580,000 sq km. The north of the country is arid and thinly populated, while the south offers one of the most varied landscapes in Africa.

Population: Approximately 39million, concentrated in the southern half of the country, especially in the highlands around Nairobi and the lush Uganda border area.

People: Kenya is a culturally diverse nation. The dominant linguistic groups are the Kikuyu of the highlands around Nairobi and the Luo of the lake Victoria region. The Swahili people of the Kenyan and Tanzanian coast are a loosely affiliated group of Bantu-speakers with a strong religious, linguistic and genetic input from the Islamic world. The Maasai of the Rift Valley and Samburu of the north are pastoralists whose ancestors probably migrated from Ethiopia in the 17th century.

Climate: Kenya is a country of enormous climatic variations. The coast and lake Victoria hinterland are hot and humid throughout the day, the Rift Valley is hot and dry cooling down significantly at night, while highland areas can be downright chilly in the evening. The rainy season is broadly between October and April, though December and January are often fairly dry.

Getting Around: Buses and minibuses cover all main roads south of Kitale and west of Nairobi.  There is plenty of road transport between Nairobi and Mombasa, and along the coast as far north as Lamu. Several good rail services exist, including the near-legendary run between Nairobi and Mombasa. Car hire is cheaper than in neighbouring countries, though you will need to pay extra for a 4×4 to visit most game reserves.

Highlights: Kenya’s most popular game reserve, the Maasai Mara, is a small and relatively congested extension of Tanzania’s superior Serengeti National Park. The Samburu Complex north of Mount Kenya is a good place to see ‘northern specials’ such as Grevy’s zebra, reticulated giraffe and gerenuk antelope. Amboseli National Park is the place to see elephants swaggering in the shadow of Kilimanjaro, while the famous Treetops-style hotels of the Aberdares, Mount Kenya and Shimba Hills National Parks offer the chance to see forest animals at close proximity.

The highlight of the coast is Lamu, a richly atmospheric and remarkably laid-back Swahili city that has barely changed in shape over the last few centuries. The old town of Mombasa, too, has plenty of atmosphere, and the resorts and hotels on nearby Diani Beach are the country’s prime destination for sunbathing addicts. The Watamu and Malindi area is a haven for snorkellers, divers and game fishermen, and offers good access to the jungle-bound medieval ruins at Gede.

To the west of Nairobi, the string of lakes lining the Rift Valley floor offer wonderful birdwatching and many opportunities to see wildlife on foot, particularly around Lake Naivasha.

Closer to the Uganda border, the Lake Victoria hinterland and western highlands have some scintillating off-the-beaten-track options: notably the superlative and pedestrian-friendly Kakamega Forest and Saiwa Swamp National Parks, the rolling tea plantations that cover the hills around Kisii, remote lakeshore ports such as Kendu Bay, and the fine hiking country of the Cherangani Hills and Mount Elgon.

Ignore anybody who tells you that Kenya is too ‘touristy’ – they simply haven’t made the effort. If you don’t believe me, try a few nights at Olorgasailie, only two hours by bus from the capital, but one of the last places where a sweeping view of the Rift Valley floor might encompass a Maasai herdsman tending his cattle within a few hundred metres of a giraffe; or pitch a tent on the rim of Lake Chala, a startlingly beautiful crater lake on the Tanzania border beneath the shadow of Kilimanjaro – or just spend an evening chatting, drinking and dancing in any local bar.

Tanzania

Area: 945,166 sq km. In addition to a long Indian Ocean coastline, it is the only country with access to all three of Africa’s great lakes (Victoria, Tanganyika and Malawi). The 5,895m Mount Kilimanjaro on the Kenyan border is the highest peak in Africa. The offshore islands of Zanzibar and Pemba form the separate state of Zanzibar.

Population: About 41 million.

Climate: Broadly similar to Kenya.

Getting around: The main north-south road connecting Arusha to Mbeya via Dar es Salaam is in good condition and express buses are reasonably quick. Elsewhere, road transport is slow and overcrowded, and pretexts are found for stopping every couple of kilometres – it once took me 14 hours to bus the 200km between Iringa and Dodoma! The best way to get between the east and west is the rail service connecting Dar es Salaam to Kigoma and Mwanza. Boats connect Dar es Salaam to Zanzibar and Mtwara, and there are regular ferry services on all three great lakes.

Highlights: The map of north-eastern Tanzania reads like a litany of Africa’s most evocative place names. The Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater live up to expectation – the former is quite simply Africa’s finest game reserve! The island of Zanzibar, too, rarely disappoints, with its combination of crumbling Omani ruins, an atmospheric old town, and numerous perfect beaches. Kilimanjaro is rightly regarded as one of Africa’s most breathtaking sights – on the rare occasions when the peak emerges from the clouds.

Not surprisingly, tourism is concentrated in the north. But the southern reserves of Ruaha and Selous are among the most highly-rated and underdeveloped in Africa, while birders and hikers will find plenty to occupy them in the forested Udzungwa, Usambara and Poroto Mountains. The strongly-traditional coast south of Dar es Salaam boasts Tanzania’s most alluring off-the-beaten-track destination: the impressive ruins of the medieval gold trading centre of Kilwa.

Highlights in the remote west include Gombe Stream National Park, where Jane Goodall undertook her famous chimpanzee study, and the grand two-night ferry trip down Lake Tanganyika on the 80-year-old German vessel, MV Liemba.

Uganda

Area: 235,796 sq km. It is a lush country, some 25% of which is covered in water – notably Lakes Victoria, Edward, Albert, George and Kyoga. The official source of the White Nile, the world’s longest river, rises from the Lake Victoria at Jinja, roughly 100km east of Kampala.

Population: Uganda is densely populated with 32 million people, most of whom are concentrated in the south and west.

People: Uganda has a long history of centralised societies. Oral tradition and archaeological evidence in the form of vast earthworks near Ntusi suggest that the first kingdoms emerged around AD 1100 and that the extant kingdoms of Buganda, Banyoro and Banyankole have been in existence for around 500 years.

Climate: Uganda’s equatorial climate is tempered by high altitude. Maximum daily temperatures are generally between 25-30ºC. The Nile and Lake Victoria hinterlands tend to be hotter than elsewhere, and uncomfortably humid at times. Most parts of the country have an annual rainfall of between 1000 and 2000mm. Rainfall patterns vary regionally, but the wettest months are generally October, November, and March to May.

Getting Around: Most main roads have been resurfaced since the civil war ended and so public transport is relatively nippy. Buses cover all main routes, leaving at scheduled times. A non-stop flow of minibuses leave when they fill up. Car hire is expensive and a 4×4 is required to get to most reserves.

Highlights: Uganda’s most popular tourist attraction is mountain gorilla tracking in Bwindi National Park or the Virunga range on the border with Rwanda and Zaire. But while mountain gorillas have helped dispel the notion that Uganda is unsafe, they have also obscured the other attractions of the country’s extensive rainforests. Several forests offer cheap, well-organised chimpanzee tracking walks. Kibale Forest alone protects some 13 monkey species including the beautiful black-and-white colobus and red colobus.

Uganda is the East African country for bird-watchers. More than 1000 species have been recorded in an area similar to Britain, including roughly 150 West African species at the eastern limit of their range. Forests like Semuliki, Kibale and Budongo provide the focal point of ornithological visits, but the whole of Uganda is one giant bird sanctuary, with several exciting species to be seen even in the capital. Uganda is too compact to have reserves on the scale of Kenya and Tanzania, but large mammal populations are slowly recovering after heavy poaching during the war.

The launch trips in Queen Elizabeth and Murchison Falls National Parks rank with the most memorable game viewing experiences available in East Africa. For hikers, prime destinations are the Ruwenzori Mountains and Mount Elgon. There are limitless opportunities for more sedate walking in the field of 30-odd crater lakes around Fort Portal and on the forested Ssese Islands in Lake Victoria.

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